Saturday, October 13, 2018

Austria - Traditional Costume of the Montafon 2016



Product Information:
Date of Issue: 30 June 2016
Number of Copies: 470.000
Print Style: Offset
Design: Anita Kern
Type: Sondermarke
Printed: Joh. Enschedé Stamps B.V

In Vorarlberg traditional costumes vary greatly by region. As part of its “Klassische Trachten” (classic traditional costumes) series, Austrian Post is presenting the traditional working garb of the Montafon, which is still worn unchanged to this day, and is one of the historic traditional costumes worn in the valley. This so-called “Wärchtigjüpple” (workday dress), the everyday working garb of the ladies of the Montafon, impresses with its simplicity. Both the skirt and the bodice are made from a dark, plain-coloured worsted flannel or pure wool. The tightly fitted bodice is high-necked, but allows the lace (“Spitzle”) of the white blouse worn underneath to show at the neck. This “Hemdle” or blouse is made of linen, and the borders are decorated with hand-made lace or decorative stitching (“Bäumlestich”). A blue striped or plain-coloured cotton apron is worn over the skirt; a black striped silk apron creates a particularly fine effect. This is accompanied by black stockings and a cotton scarf. The latter is white with a scattered red or blue pattern and is folded into a triangle and worn around the neck. The men’s costume comprises black loden knee breeches, black woollen hose, a white shirt and a red waistcoat, called the “Lieble”. The “Tschopa”, a dark blue jacket with two rows of buttons at the back is worn over this. Particularly eye-catching is the headgear: a black top hat which is only found in the Montafon. As for the traditional costume for festival days worn by the women of the Montafon, which dates back to the Baroque era, it is the embroidered stomacher which is laced into the front of the bodice and the elaborately decorated ribbons over the apron in its muted colours which are particularly eye-catching. The “Glöggli-Tschopa”, the short jacket, is accompanied by an otter skin hat, a “Mäßli” – a kind of brimless top hat – or a “Sanderhut”, a black straw hat with a bow. The term “Schlutta” describes a brocade jacket with delicate white lace at the collar. This costume for special days is completed by a red underskirt and red stockings, buckled shoes and a bow at the neck. Unmarried girls in the Montafon wear a special outfit, called the “Schäppelmaigana”: The “libli” (bodice) with its embroidered stomacher is worn with a white blouse. The name comes from the “Schäppel”, the headgear: a small coronet of silver or gold filaments and coloured glass balls which is affixed to the head. The artistically embroidered ribbons are woven into the girls’ plaited hair and hang down their backs to the ground. The Schäppel is only worn when the weather is good and with no outer wear over it. These historic traditional costumes continue to be worn by numerous societies for traditional costumes, music and dance groups, with the Vorarlberger Landestrachtenverband (national association of people wearing traditional costume for Vorarlberg) supporting this tradition and ensuring that local traditions are maintained.

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